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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.